ADVICES

The types and widths of wood from the basic offer:

Straight edges

• Siberian larch: 65 mm, 90 mm, 140 mm
• Spruce: 145 mm
• Thermopin: 65 mm, 115 mm or 140 mm

Tongue and groove

• Siberian larch: 120 mm, 130 mm
• Spruce: 136mm, 138mm
• Thermopin: 118mm, 140mm
• Oak: 120mm, 150mm, 180mm

The thickness of the boards:

• Siberian larch: 20 mm
• Spruce: 19mm
• Thermopin: 20-28 mm
• Oak: to be determined based on current availability
• Carbonized layer thickness: +/- 1mm

The standard dimensions of the boards: 2 m, 3 m, 3.5 m, 4 m, 5 m. At the customer’s request, we can cut the boards to the desired length but this may involve an additional waste area.

Other dimensions and types of wood are checked on individual request.

Facade boards made of wood, as a 100% natural and hygroscopic material, react to changing environmental conditions, which results in their work in terms of changing their dimensions with increasing or decreasing humidity in the room. ‚air. The acclimatization of the boards makes it possible to achieve a hygroscopic balance with the environment, which is why, before placing them on the facade, they should be stored at least for a few days in a dry, ventilated and covered place, arranged horizontally. at a distance of at least 20 cm from the ground. With intensive heating of the room, the humidity in the air may drop to such a low level that the boards will be dry.

Since wood is a natural material, it can cause the boards to shrink and small cracks to form between the boards. In order to minimize such influence, an air humidifier should be used. Before installing the boards, eliminate all sources of humidity to ensure a constant humidity level in the room. The walls and floors of the building must be completely dry. The storage, installation of the boards and their subsequent use must take place under optimal environmental conditions:

• air humidity: 45-60%
• temperature +18 ÷ 24 ° C
• wall humidity up to 3%

Maintenance of interior planks
When cleaning and maintaining the boards, use soft, dry or slightly damp fabrics as well as products suitable for maintaining polyurethane varnishes. When maintaining finishes with a carbonized layer, it is better to use a vacuum cleaner with a flexible nozzle, being careful not to damage the decorative layer. Do not use substances that you do not know so as not to damage the boards. The recommended maintenance product is ADLER Clean Möbelpflege 96491.

Maintenance of exterior planks
Exterior wood painted or covered with a semi-transparent film should be cleaned regularly to keep surfaces clear and reduce the risk of dirt trapping moisture and accelerating rotting. The frequency of cleaning wood for exterior use is primarily dependent on the degree of dirt accumulation, microbial growth and moisture, which in turn depends on geographic location and local conditions (exposure). Use a neutral detergent to clean the wooden parts. Cleaning products containing aggressive substances, solvents or abrasives must not be used as they can damage the surface. Do not use high pressure cleaners.

Floor plank maintenance
A doormat must be placed in front of each exterior door to protect the floor against water and dirt. The furniture must be fitted with felt plates. For daily maintenance, a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth should be used. Periodic preservation of the floor must be ensured by using products intended for the preservation of wooden floors. You must also follow the instructions on the packaging of each product. Always wipe the floor immediately until all traces of moisture are removed. Storage with the use of water is strictly prohibited! It is also forbidden to use scouring products as they could damage the carbonized layer.

Wood siding exhibits a variety of natural characteristics which vary depending on the exposure environment and can cause minor siding imperfections. At least once a year, the coated panels should be inspected for signs of surface damage or cracks, coating degradation or discoloration of the wood surface under the coating, indicating moisture infiltration. . Inspect and clean gutters and downspouts. Repair leaks, which can cause localized and excessive wetting of the siding.

Since repaired areas may appear brighter, the entire panel or a fragment of the wall may be covered to maintain color consistency. If regular maintenance is delayed or if other damage has occurred, additional steps may be necessary to restore the coating to its original condition. Preventive rather than reactive maintenance will ensure that the coating is always protected, extend its life and help reduce lifetime maintenance costs.

The boards without a charred layer, burnt and brushed, which highlights the natural structure and grain of the wood. After brushing, the boards have the color of dark brown. The board is impregnated and protected on the surface with a thin layer of black stain. The final visual result therefore depends mainly on the grain of the wood. Wood is a natural product. This means that individual boards may differ from each other.

The protection (stain) penetrates further into the initial wood. In late wood, more impregnation remains on the surface, which makes the grain shinier and more accentuated. When we have a board with small rings, this differentiation effect is weaker because the surface of this board (after burning and brushing) contains more late wood.

Comparison of boards with smaller, distinct annual rings:

Plate A – has smaller annual rings, so visually it will be more „striped”. After burning and brushing, the board will have a less deep texture on its surface because there is little „initial” wood that is selected by the brushing machine. Considering the biological sustainability aspects of wood, these boards will be more durable.

On the surface of board B we can clearly see a division into earlywood and latewood, more surface is occupied by earlywood (paler black), which accepts protection well and therefore shines less. Plate B has noticeably more dark circles which later affect the visual appearance.

The wall plank is best mounted on the wooden mounting slats. The wooden mounting slats with a minimum thickness of 2 cm are fixed to the wall using the dowels, perpendicular to the direction of laying of the boards at a distance of 40 to 60 cm.

The boards are fixed with nails or screws. If you want the fastener not to be visible, the connectors should be nailed or screwed into the tab at a 45 degree angle. The location of the screws must be drilled or self-drilling screws must be used.

The floor is mounted on beams laid at a distance of 40-60 cm or with glue. Before proceeding with the assembly of the floor, it is necessary to:

• check the quality of the waterproofing as well as the climatic stabilization state of the building,
• take soil moisture measurements and assess the capacity to evaporate residual moisture,
• carry out soil resistance measurements – hardness, resistance to shearing and tearing as well as the precision of its surface.

In view of the above, the choice of the glue and primer-glue system is determined. In some cases it is possible to apply a stress distance layer in the form of OSB boards or stress leveling mats. However, this method requires the selection of a suitable glue and the realization of the floor of the appropriate quality. The glue must be flexible but also resistant to shear due to changes in the dimensions of the floor resulting from natural changes in its humidity. The humidity of the floor for assembly must correspond to:

• wooden – up to 12%
• concrete – up to 2% by the CM method
• in anhydrite – up to 0.5% by the CM method

It is not recommended to lay the solid wood planks on the heated floors, customers, who intend to lay the planks on the heated floor, take responsibility for it. It is recommended to call on companies specializing in parquet laying, which guarantees a good installation of the floor. The wall planks are mounted as standard on the mounting slats laid perpendicular to the direction of laying of the boards at a distance of 40-60 cm while keeping an expansion space. The floor must be protected if other work will be done in the room. Furniture must not be dragged on the floor.

Assembly
When designing the elevation you must include the excess material needed to cut (10-15%). The wooden facade is exposed to atmospheric factors such as strong wind, changes in air humidity and precipitation. Maintaining the correct distance from the floor (30 cm), the angle of inclination of the window sills, the window treatments or the extended roof are the basic factors to keep in mind during the installation work. Oriwood is suitable for standard siding types, the installer should follow the same installation recommendations as for traditional wood siding, requiring no special items or tools.

Supporting structure
The wooden facade can be fixed to a building wall of any type. This is done by a wooden frame. For the construction of the frame under the wooden facade, slats of the same type of wood as the facade battens or with similar properties are used.
The timber frame must be dry and impregnated, unseasoned timber is not suitable for this purpose. The slats are always mounted at an angle of 90 ° to the finishing battens. If during assembly a counter batten was also used, it is the counter batten which must be mounted at an angle of 90 ° to the finishing batten. The distance between the slats should be between 40 cm and 60 cm. Assembly begins at the bottom with the tongue upwards, to allow free circulation of water. In the case of vertical cladding, the best practice is to use a double frame in which the horizontal slats are fixed to vertical slats.

The horizontal slats should be chamfered at the top, projecting water into the doorway. If only horizontal support slats are used, additional measures should be taken to ensure sufficient ventilation, for example by cutting grooves in the slats or creating breaks in the slats at regular intervals. In this case, it is advantageous if the horizontal slats are chamfered on the upper edge to remove any water. When using fasteners (screws) and metal hardware, it is important to use materials with high corrosion resistance and to avoid such types of steel which react with the components of the wood. As a result of contact with them, the wood may permanently discolor.

The insulation should be protected by a waterproof and windproof membrane, which will protect against moisture from the outside, while allowing the evaporation of water that has penetrated inside. There should be free space between the board and the wall – at least 20 mm. This allows air to circulate under the facade planks and proper drying of the planks. There should be spaces (openings) in the lower and upper part of the facade through which air can enter and exit freely. At the top and bottom of the facade, it is necessary to leave spaces (openings) which allow air to enter and exit freely. The locations of the air inlets and outlets must be protected by mosquito nets.

Between the horizontal fragments of wooden facades and other materials, sheet metal drip trays facilitating water drainage can be used. Vertical junctions should also be designed so as not to expose the wall to moisture. Particular attention should be paid to securing boards near window openings and window sills, as well as in corners. The distance from the first front plank of du must not be less than 30 cm. The cut edges of the boards should be impregnated, since moisture penetrates them the fastest.

The facade profiles without tongue and groove can also be mounted in two ways, using special resistant stainless fixing brackets, which are screwed to the rear face of the profile, and two screws through the space between the profiles is mounted on the frame. Along the width of the board with one or two stainless steel screws (preferably with a high strength class). The places where we aim the screw must be slightly drilled beforehand or it is necessary to use self-drilling screws to prevent the board from breaking. The head of the screw should be coated with the surface of the board. The screws should be screwed in a suitable distance from the end of the board so as not to break the boards (approximately 5-10cm). If it is necessary to fix near the end, the holes should be drilled initially.

Packaging:

Packages with boards are packed separately, each package is wrapped with stretch foil. If the boards are packed on a pallet (larger quantity), then the whole pallet is also stretched. The bubble wrap is placed between the finish. The upper part and the base part of the package always face the back part, we use jute twine to tie.
The boards are packed 5 pieces a package.

Dimensions of the package: width of the boards x length of the boards x 10-15cm

The weight of 1 m2 is about 13-14 kg

Storage of internal boards:

Packages with planks must be left in the room where they are to be installed, in order to acclimatize for at least 27 days at a temperature of 18 to 24°C and a relative humidity of 40 to 60%. Place the packages horizontally and remove the protective film. The strips that secure the wood should only be removed immediately before installation. Before installing the planks, eliminate all sources of moisture to ensure a constant humidity level in the room. The walls and floors of the building must be completely dry. With intensive heating of the room, the air humidity can drop to such a low level that the boards dry out.

Storage of external boards:

The boards must be stored for at least a few days in a dry, ventilated and covered place, they must be stored horizontally at a distance of at least 20 cm from the ground. The stretch film can be removed but it must be protected against excessive humidity because tightly placed planks do not dry out, which can lead to deformation of the planks and change in dimensions when drying quickly (for example on a facade sunny).